Uncovering the Past and Present of the Yucatán's Haciendas

Hundreds of Haciendas or plantations once symbolized the Yucatan Peninsula's wealth but were abandoned in the 1950s after a sudden downturn in fortune. Over the years, the jungle has taken them back.

Through thick jungle vegetation, you will see a crumbling stone wall slowly being overtaken by creeping vines and alamo trees. The wall surrounded what must have once been an elegant courtyard. It was part of a larger hacienda, one of the many vast and magnificent estates that had been built with the wealth of Yucatan's 19th-Century henequen-rope industry, all now a ghost of their former glory.

Though few travelers know of them, hundreds of these haciendas exist throughout the peninsula, many spanning thousands of acres. Some of the ruins are visible from the side of the road, while others require the keen eye and local knowledge of a guide, and whereas some have been left for nature to take back, a few have been reclaimed for a second life.

Yaxcopoil is a hacienda where time stops. You can wander freely through the bedrooms in the main house. There you will see the large dining rooms and other attractive spaces with high ceilings, original mosaic tile floors, and European furniture, as well as detailed hand paintings on the house's walls. There is also an impressive machine house, with examples of the machinery used to process henequen, the area's old business.

The property was selected for a summit between President Bill Clinton and President Ernesto Zedillo of Mexico in 1999. If you are hungry, you can enjoy a delicious gourmet meal at a reasonable price. The service is impeccable, the food exceptional, and the occasional sound of birds gives it an exotic feel.

Hacienda Ochil is of as much historical interest as Yaxcopoil, but with the added pleasure of several craft stores. Here you can find master artisans teaching young people to work in leather, stone, metals, wood, and sisal. You can find one if you are looking for a genuine henequen hammock. Ochil is an intimate and charming hacienda with an informal restaurant, a gift store, artisans' workshops, and a museum.

One of the pleasures of Ochil is to take a walk on the grounds, enjoying the exotic gardens. Walking behind the restaurant, you will be surprised by the semi-hidden cenote. Depending on the water level, you may be able to walk over one edge and observe the ancient Mayan paintings on the cavern walls.

The legendary gardens, luxurious suites, magnificent Casa de Piedra restaurant, and sumptuous spa define this luxury hacienda. You can visit without reservations to either sample the dishes at the celebrated restaurant, have a spa treatment, or if you're in the mood for pampering, both.